In and around Sri Lanka's Hiriketya Bay
Ahhh, Sri Lanka - one of my favourite places in the world and one I keep returning to. I have been to this paradise island seven times: first in 2010 to travel and explore, some years later to surf, and then to teach. Because of tourism, the island changed a lot since the first time I was there; I witnessed both subtle and drastic changes over the years. Some of the changes were positive both for tourists and locals, some not so much, but that's life, I guess. Still, important things didn't change - lush nature, rich culture, great food, good waves, and the kindness of local people are still ever-present.
I have led one retreat and four Yoga Teacher Training courses on the island, all at different locations. Last year, we led a Teacher Training further south than usual, close to beautiful Hiriketya Bay, and loved it. I found it was a perfect mix of everything our students might need for a Yoga Teacher Training intensive - a quiet, beachside venue for practising, learning, and enjoying a peaceful time off, and the proximity to everything Hiriketya has to offer - surf for every level, palm-shaded beach, great restaurants and cool bars. And so we decided to return; we have a 200h YTT coming up in December 2023 and another one in March 2024.
If you are one of the lucky ones joining us this December or are planning to spend some time in and around Hiriketiya, I wanted to share some of my favourite spots.
Catch the sunrise on Blue Beach Island
Located in Nilwella, a fishing village east of Hiriketya, Blue Bay Island is a great spot to catch a sunrise. It is close to a fishery harbour, and when facing East, you can enjoy the view of the rising sun and colourful fishing boats as they return to port. If you're not an early bird, you can take a short walk around the island and enjoy a king coconut afterwards.
Enjoy a healthy lunch in Hiriketya Bay
Choose from the menu or make your own poke bowl and enjoy a healthy meal at Malu Poke. If you're vegan, you'll be happy to hear they have tofu and tempeh alongside many veggies to choose from. Malu Poke is just across the street from the west part of the bay.
Further up the hill, and with great views, another great lunch (and dinner) option is Mond. They had vegan options, including a wonderful vegan chocolate mousse last year; I hope they kept it on the menu.
Surf or lounge at the beach
When it comes to surfing, Hiriketiya Bay has much to offer; on most days, it welcomes beginners, intermediate and advanced surfers alike. If surfing is not your thing, rent a beach bed under the palm tree and enjoy the sun and sea.
For a more quiet option, head to Dikwella or Kudawella. There are some less busy surf spots around, too, but they stay that way because they are not published in blogs;) I am sworn to secrecy, but locals are friendly and might give you a good tip if you ask nicely.
Catch a sunset at Dikwella Bay
To catch the sun diving into the ocean, you'll need to leave Hiri and catch a tuk-tuk to Dikwella, a bay west of Hiriketya. It's a long beach, perfect for a nice sunset beach stroll. There are a few small bars and a restaurant right on the beach if you want to sit down and enjoy the sunset.
Enjoy a lovely dinner
The sun sets early on the island, but if you're already up for dinner, Verse Collective in Dikwella has some great options - from local dishes to international cuisine and good vegan options. If you head back to Hiri, we love Bahia Hiriketya restaurant. And yes, vegan options are available, too. I guess it goes without saying at this point.
Still, one of the best meals we had, plus one of the best cocktails I ever had, can be found in Smoke and Bitters. This place is pricy but worth it. It's a great place for a celebratory dinner. Book a few days ahead, though; they tend to be very busy.
We also loved Dots Bay House - they have pizza! Plus it's a fun place with good music (when not too loud) for a night on the town.
Learn about Sri Lankan history and culture
Sri Lanka is a Buddhist country, and you might want to visit one of many Buddhist temples. A beautiful one and well worth the visit, called Wewurukannala Buduraja Maha Viharaya, can be found inland, just north of Dikwella town. Please ensure you are respectful of local customs and dress accordingly.
Catch a train from Matara to Galle, a beautiful colonial fortified city founded by the Portuguese in the 16th century. Walk the charming streets and the wall, grab a lunch and buy yourself or your loved ones something nice - there are some lovely shops and galleries in Galle. There are some great restaurants with good local food, too.
Immerse in (more) nature
Nature is abundant in Sri Lanka, and you'll always be surrounded by it, but if you have a full day and you want to see wildlife, visit Udawalawe National Park, a few hour drive away. You would need to rent a local car and driver, of course, and leave quite early, but it is worth it. It is wonderful to see elephants, buffalos, crocodiles, birds etc, in their natural habitat. The park is not overcrowded, and, for the most part, the drivers are respectful of the wildlife.
On that note, always check how sustainable certain tours and practices are. For example, I would avoid Matara whale watching - the tours are unregulated and disrespectful to the whales. Motorboats chase and surround them, endangering the whales and the people on board.
Do some Karma Yoga
One thing that always breaks my heart in Sri Lanka is street dogs. There are many, and they are often in bad shape. If it wasn't for some amazing people, and I have to admit, mostly foreign, who started taking care of dogs and other animals, the situation would be even worse. One such person is Janey Lowes (@janeythevet) who runs We Care Sri Lanka (@wecare_srilanka). The shelter is not far from Hiriketya and you can visit if you call ahead. But, what they need the most is donations. It's a great way to give back and do some Karma Yoga.
Upcoming Sri Lanka Yoga Teacher Training